In an age of fast content and digital everything, there’s something deeply romantic about walking into a quiet, character-filled bookshop — especially when it’s hidden in a coastal town surrounded by sea mist and stories.
Tucked into the heart of Ballycastle, a tiny but fiercely proud town along the Causeway Coast in Northern Ireland, lies The Secret Bookshelf, a place that feels less like a store and more like a portal to other worlds.
Recently described by travel bloggers as “Ireland’s most magical independent bookshop,” this place has become a pilgrimage site for book lovers, romantics, and seekers of the unique. Here’s why it’s worth planning an entire trip around one little shop.
1. A Bookshop Carved Into History
The Secret Bookshelf is located in the converted Presbyterian Church Hall, just off Ballycastle’s central square. The building still echoes with whispers of its past — arched windows, wooden pews turned into reading benches, and lofty ceilings that make you feel reverent just by browsing.
Owner Maggie O’Donnell, a former literature lecturer turned book whisperer, has created a space where every book feels personally chosen — because it is. She handpicks each title, favouring Irish authors, coastal themes, and timeless tales over mass-market bestsellers.
2. The Smell of Books, Coffee, and Sea Salt
The shop doubles as a literary café, with coffee so good it attracts locals who have no intention of reading. There’s fresh-baked soda bread in the morning, warm apple tart in the afternoon, and a locally roasted coffee blend called “Poet’s Pour” that’ll have you writing haikus by your second cup.
Through the windows, you can glimpse the Atlantic, just five minutes away on foot. The salty air, the creak of the floorboards, and the quiet hum of classical music make this feel more like a writing retreat than a shop.
3. It Hosts Magical Events You’ll Never Forget
Think bookshops are sleepy? Not this one.
The Secret Bookshelf has hosted midnight readings by candlelight, poetry slams with visiting poets from Dublin and Edinburgh, and even an annual “Ghost Stories by the Sea” night each October. The shop becomes a glowing lantern in the dark, filled with whispered tales, laughter, and red wine.
Their “Shelf Sessions” — intimate gigs by indie musicians among the shelves — have developed a cult following, and it’s not uncommon to see people drive from Belfast just to get a seat.
4. The Perfect Base for a Literary Coastal Escape
Ballycastle itself is a gem. The town boasts a stunning beach, the haunting ruins of Kinbane Castle, and is just a ferry ride away from Rathlin Island, where puffins outnumber people. It’s also part of the Causeway Coastal Route, making it a scenic detour for road-trippers exploring Giant’s Causeway, Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge, or the Dark Hedges.
Stay overnight at a charming B&B like Glass Island, or book a converted lighthouse keepers’ cottage nearby for maximum windswept inspiration.
Rathlin Island
5. The Vibe? Pure Irish Magic.
It’s not about buying books — though you absolutely will. It’s about pausing time. It’s about curling up on a battered armchair beside a stranger who might recommend a life-changing novel. It’s about feeling the heartbeat of a place that still believes stories can change the world.
How to Get There:
By Car: 90 mins from Belfast, 3 hours from Dublin
By Bus: Translink services run regularly to Ballycastle from Coleraine and Belfast
By Air: Belfast International Airport is the closest hub (1hr 10 mins drive)
